The Science of Big Waves

Design a blog post on your blog of a big wave site from different parts of the world. Be sure to describe the geography and the topography of the ocean floor in these areas and how this helps create these massive waves. check out http://www.extremehorizon.com/surf-shop/big_waves.html for big waves around the world.






Pre-viewing:

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started? The waves come from thousands of miles off the coast created by the wind. The wind and energy along with the speed and size. 
2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing? I think that a surfer should know the speed and strength of certain waves, and obviously if they are safe enough to ride.

Question for the Video:

1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions. Waves form when the wind increases as does the speed. When the energy of a wave hits the low land the wave cycles are compressed and it creates a long wavelength. 
2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured? Waves are formed depending on the climate in the impact zone thousands of miles out to sea. They are measured in wave height and strength. 
3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed? A wave which crashes on the coast in  California in Maverick. There are many rocks near the beaches so it creates very big waves. 
4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave? When the wind speed and the duration increase, energy is stored under the water chain in circular cycles. This then turns into kinetic energy creating large waves.
5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.” I would just make sure that they know what they are getting themselves into. They should study the wave before hand so that they know the possible dangers and so that they are safe. 

Peahi (Jaws)

Peahi (Jaws):When severe storms occur in the Pacific, the resulting swell sends giant waves crashing onto the north shore of Maui. The waves are so intense that the spot has become known to surfers across the world as 'Jaws.' The waves of Jaws can reach up to 21m (70ft). The wave speed and wave length decrease in shallow water, therefore the energy per unit area of the wave has to increase, so the wave height increases.When the wave crest becomes too steep, it becomes unstable, curling forward and breaking. This usually happens when the height of the wave becomes about the same size as the local water depth. 

Exercise 7.1 Questions: Geographical issues in the coastal environment

1. 85% of the Australian population live 50 km's of the coast. This densely populated area has affected the coastal environment with pollution, tourism and recreational pressures. 
2. Many different groups of people use the beach and for residential needs, population growth and introduced plants.
3. Population Growth.
4.Residential caps. They restrict the population density. 
5. 
Tourism: Increasing people coming to the coasts for holidays which damages the ecosystem.
Population Increase: People moving to the coast from other inland towns.
Pollution: Humans polluting the coastal environment because of litter and other things.
Introduced Plants:Humans introducing new plant species which may benefit humans but hurt natural wildlife.
6. Assisting with tourism, residential and commercial activities.
7b. 
a. 
I am just writing to you to say that the views which I have seen from my new apartment are not as good as the pictures you have shown me, and I am wondering why. I have paid a very generous amount to live in this luxurious place with lots of space and I am very pleased with the inside, however the outside is not as I imagined. I expects to have one of the nicest views of the coast, but in fact I have a very nice view... of the car park. I am sending you a warning letter now because if I don't get a better room, I will put in an official complaint.
OLIVER RICH