The Science of Big Waves

Design a blog post on your blog of a big wave site from different parts of the world. Be sure to describe the geography and the topography of the ocean floor in these areas and how this helps create these massive waves. check out http://www.extremehorizon.com/surf-shop/big_waves.html for big waves around the world.






Pre-viewing:

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started? The waves come from thousands of miles off the coast created by the wind. The wind and energy along with the speed and size. 
2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing? I think that a surfer should know the speed and strength of certain waves, and obviously if they are safe enough to ride.

Question for the Video:

1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions. Waves form when the wind increases as does the speed. When the energy of a wave hits the low land the wave cycles are compressed and it creates a long wavelength. 
2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured? Waves are formed depending on the climate in the impact zone thousands of miles out to sea. They are measured in wave height and strength. 
3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed? A wave which crashes on the coast in  California in Maverick. There are many rocks near the beaches so it creates very big waves. 
4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave? When the wind speed and the duration increase, energy is stored under the water chain in circular cycles. This then turns into kinetic energy creating large waves.
5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.” I would just make sure that they know what they are getting themselves into. They should study the wave before hand so that they know the possible dangers and so that they are safe.